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Cotton Quality and Fiber Properties

Part V: Effects of Fiber Fineness

Textile Research Institute, Princeton, New Jeysey

Helmut Wakeham

Textile Research Institute, Princeton, New Jeysey

The purpose of this research was to evaluate fiber fineness as a cotton quality factor, especially with regard to processing characteristics and fabric performance. Three lots of cotton having Micronaire values of 3.6, 4.5, and 5.4 were studied. In addition, equal weights of the 3.6 and 5.4 cottons were mixed to prepare a fourth lot of medium fineness to compare with the 4.5 cotton. The cottons were spun into 30/1 yarns, woven into a 66 X 68 fabric construction, and bleached, mercerized, dyed, and resin-finished. Samples taken throughout the trial were used to determine the properties of the single fibers, rovings, yarns, and fabrics.

Increasing fineness, or decreasing Micronaire, was found to increase roving and yarn strengths, and to decrease spinning end-breakage rates. Maximum yarn strength was reached at lower twists for the finer cottons. Neps increased with increasing fineness.

The fabrics of the finest cotton possessed more strength, more abrasion resistance, more elasticity, and a softer hand than the fabrics of the coarser cottons. Resin treat ment eliminated most of the fabric advantages of the finer cottons. Increasing fineness also caused greater fabric shrinkage and somewhat poorer crease recovery. The blended lot was generally equal to the lot of medium fineness in both processing char acteristics and fabric quality.

In general these observations suggest that distinct benefits can be obtained by the use of finer cottons, provided the accompanying increase in neps can be tolerated.

Textile Research Journal, Vol. 26, No. 7, 543-552 (1956)
DOI: 10.1177/004051755602600708


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