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Textile Research Journal
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Optimizing a Wool Dyeing Process with an Azoic 1:2 Metal Complex Dye Using Commercially Available Liposomes

A. De la Maza

Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Centro de Investigación y Desarrollo, 08034 Barcelona, Spain

L. Coderch

Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Centro de Investigación y Desarrollo, 08034 Barcelona, Spain

A.M. Manich

Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Centro de Investigación y Desarrollo, 08034 Barcelona, Spain

M. Marti

Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Centro de Investigación y Desarrollo, 08034 Barcelona, Spain

J.L. Parra

Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Centro de Investigación y Desarrollo, 08034 Barcelona, Spain

S. Serra

Tints i Blanqueig, S.A., Reina Elionor, 49, 08205 Sabadell, Spain

We investigate the application of a commercially available phosphatidylcholine li posome suspension of defined size (about 100 nm) as a carrier for the azoic metal complex 1:2 dye Lanaset Yellow 2R to untreated wool fibers at the pilot plant level. To explore the influence of the experimental conditions on the dyeing process and on dyed yarn properties, we use a Box and Behnken factorial design for three variables. From this optimization study, we conclude that commercially available liposomes are suitable for dyeing wool at lower temperatures and shorter times than those needed in conventional industrial wool dyeing. Thus, wool may be dyed at 80°C using liposomes at 1 -2% owf with satisfactory dye exhaustion and fixation levels and good mechanical properties and handle. The main novelty of this procedure is the use of commercial liposomes as a simple dyebath additive. Increasing liposome concentrations in the dyebath improve dye exhaustion on the fibers at high temperatures, but dye fixation at these temperatures is independent of liposome concentration. depending instead on dye concentration. Liposomes also improve the leveling effect of the dye compared to that with conventional auxiliaries in all cases. Although liposome concentration does not significantly affect yarn mechanical properties, there is an optimal liposome concen tration that improves handle (yarn-to-yarn friction ).

Textile Research Journal, Vol. 68, No. 9, 635-642 (1998)
DOI: 10.1177/004051759806800903
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