Textile Research Journal recent issues

Geometrical Models for Cardigan Structures Part II: Half Cardigan

Kurbak, A., Alpyildiz, T. — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:58 PST

A geometrical model for the half cardigan structure is presented based on the model of full cardigan structure given in Part I of this series of papers. In the model, loop and tuck stitch heads are taken as ellipses in two dimensions. The rest of the loops and tucks are taken as parabolic helices wrapped on elliptical cylinders in general. The parameters of the model were obtained by using a wash-relaxed wool fabric at medium tightness. Computer drawings of the model were created by the 3DS MAX graphical program, which gave similar loop shapes to those observed in real fabrics.

Predicting Seam Performance of Commercial Woven Fabrics Using Multiple Logarithm Regression and Artificial Neural Networks

Hui, C. L., Ng, S. F. — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:58 PST

In this study, the capability of artificial neural networks and multiple logarithm regression methods for modeling seam performance of commercial woven fabrics based on seam puckering, seam flotation and seam efficiency were investigated. The developed models were assessed by verifying Mean Square Error (MSE) and Correlation Coefficient (R-value) of test data prediction. The results indicated that the artificial neural network (ANN) model has better performance in comparison with the multiple logarithm regression model. The difference between the mean square error of predicting in these two models for predicting seam puckering, seam flotation, and seam efficiency was 0.0394, 0.0096, and 0.0049, respectively. Thus, the ANN model was found to be more accurate than MLR, and the prediction errors of ANNs was low despite the availability of only a small training data set. However, the difference in prediction errors made by both models was not significantly high. It was found that MLR models were quicker to construct, more transparent, and less likely to overfit the minimal amount of data available. Therefore, both models were effectively predicting the seam performance of woven fabrics.

Separation of Clustered Fibers in Cross-sectional Images using Image Set Theory

Wan, Y., Yao, L., Xu, B., Wu, X. — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:59 PST

Fiber cross-sectioning often creates fiber clusters in microscopic images, in which fibers touch or overlap each other. Prior to any geometrical analysis, it is critical to separate touching/ overlapping fibers so that the features of individual fibers, not fiber clusters, can be identified. Automatic separation of irregular, complex fiber cross-sections remains challenging in image analysis for fiber characterization and measurements. This paper introduces an algorithm based on the image set theory to separate clustered fibers in cross-section images. An image is partitioned into three subsets, fiber edges, fiber interiors, and background. The Euclidean distances between edge pixels and interior pixels are used to assign the edge pixels to specific interiors. The assignment leads to the divisions among the merged edge pixels. The experimental results demonstrated that the new algorithm can optimally separate clustered fibers of various cross-sectional shapes, including W-shaped and cross-shaped fibers.

Numerical Model of an Air-jet Loom Main Nozzle for Drag Forces Evaluation

Belforte, G., Mattiazzo, G., Viktorov, V., Visconte, C. — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:59 PST

The flow field inside an air-jet loom main nozzle is studied numerically, by means of a two-dimensional model implemented in the commercial computational fluid dynamics (CFD) code Fluent. In order to determine which physical model could allow a better prediction of the nozzle behavior, preliminary simulations were carried out on a basic geometry configuration, changing flow models and comparing results with available experimental data. Having done the model setup, simulations aimed at evaluating drag force on the weft yarn were performed on various geometry configurations; in particular, the influence of acceleration tube length, shape and size on drag force was evaluated. Results gave some guidelines for future prototyping and experimentation.

A Novel Design Method for an Intelligent Clothing Based on Garment Design and Knitting Technology

Li, L., Au, W.M., Li, Y., Wan, K.M., Chung, W.Y., Wong, K.S. — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:59 PST

The design elements of intelligent clothing were studied in this research. Both garment design as well as knitting technology concepts were applied to wearable electronic garments with aesthetic, functional, and technical features. In addition, a new garment design method is proposed for a specific task based on combinations of garment design and knitting technology to provide the required confining pressure, and electrical and mechanical properties for the intelligent clothing and also to take into account the requirements for aesthetics. Garment design skills of sewing, attaching accessories, embroidery, cutting, etc. can enhance the functionalities of the knitting technology. Garment design and knitting technology complement each other and provide a greater degree of freedom in intelligent clothing design. Experiments revealed that problems faced in intelligent clothing design, such as confining pressure, flexible electronic circuitry, aesthetic, appearance, and so on, could be successfully solved by the use of different garment design skills and knitting technologies. A garment design application model was set up based on this new design method and can be applied in the future design of intelligent clothing.

A Hybrid Planning Process for Improving Fabric Utilization

Wong, W.K., Leung, S. Y. S — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:59 PST

In the textile and clothing industry, marker planning is a critical operation in the fabric-cutting room, in which pattern pieces of different sizes and styles of a garment are laid out on a sheet of paper with fixed width and arbitrary length in order to achieve the highest fabric utilization (marker efficiency). The layout always contains areas of unusable fabric due to the irregular shapes of garment pattern pieces. The minimization of fabric wastage is crucial to the reduction of production costs. In this study, a methodology that hybridizes a heuristic packing (HP) approach based on grid approximation with an integer representation-based (µ + ) evolutionary strategy (ES) is proposed in order to obtain an efficient layout of garment patterns so as to optimize the fabric utilization. The performance of the proposed methodology is validated by the experiments and the results demonstrate that the proposed method provides an effective means by which to increase the marker efficiency.

Comparison of the 2-D Deformation of Ironed and Non-Ironed Plain Weave Fabric during Relative Humidity Cycles

Bhouri, N., Badel, E., Perre, P., Bennasrallah, S. — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:59 PST

The 2-D deformation of bleached plain weave cotton ready-to-wear clothing was measured during adsorption and desorption cycles. A digital X-ray imaging system was coupled with a climatic chamber to control temperature and relative humidity. An image of each sample was recorded for several equilibrium states. The strain along warp (_cc) and weft (_ww) directions and the shear deformation (_wc) were evaluated by image correlation process. The dimensional variations are explained by geometrical consideration of the structure at microscopic (fibers scale) and macroscopic levels (yarns scale). Indeed, the reaction between water vapor molecules and material enlightens two steps. At first, the swelling fibers fill the micropores inside the yarns. Then, the yarns swell and push on their neighbors to fill up the macropores and cause the macroscopic swelling of the overall structure. During the desorption phase, the fibers shrink to create a free space inside the plain weave structure that will be relaxed to find its initial state. The isotropy between the two main directions is explained by the weave symmetry and the similar yarn properties. The shear deformation is related to the cohesion by twist between cotton fibers. This work is more specifically focused on the ironing process (T = 200°C + steam). The ironing generates flattened yarns and increases their friction, which amplifies the deformation during the first adsorption cycle. However, this effect is cancelled at the end of the first adsorption/desorption cycle with no memory effect of the ironing process.

Three-dimensional Simulation of the Dynamic Yarn Behavior on Air-jet Looms

De Meulemeester, S., Puissant, P., Van Langenhove, L. — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:59 PST

This paper deals with the three-dimensional computer simulation of the weft insertion process as a possible solution to avoid costly weaving trials when researching this process. A three-dimensional mathematical model of the yarn was developed, in which the behavior of the yarn was described by the Second Law of Newton. For this mathematical model, a second order differential equation needed to be solved. To this end, an explicit integration using Euler’s method was chosen. In order to validate the model, high-speed camera recordings were performed on a test stand and compared with simulations of the same test stand. A very good resemblance was found between simulation and camera recordings. This is the first time that a three-dimensional model for the weft insertion on air-jet looms has been successfully tested.

Shapeable Stretch Textiles via Simple Weaves for Seamless Woven Fashion

Wang, X., Ng, F.M.C., Hu, J., Seto, Y.-c. — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:59 PST

This paper proposes approaches to create shaped woven textiles (SWTs) for seamless woven fashion by designing diverse simple weaves and applying their dimensional changes. A widespread stretch material (spandex) was selected as the main fillings for shape changes. The research introduces the four design parameters of simple weaves for stretch fabrics. Twenty types of specimens in two different configurations of the stretch fillings were then produced. Correlations between the four parameters and dimensional changes of simple weaves were investigated. With respect to dimensional and textural changes, experimental results indicated corresponding divergences of specimens made by the different simple weaves and two types of configurations of fillings. By integrating these shape changeable weaves via jacquard designs, several practical creations illustrated the sculptural capabilities of shaped textiles and aesthetical attributes. This research contributes to the integrated design and manufacture of future woven textiles and fashion.

Nanosols Textiles

Schollmeyer, E. — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:59 PST

Abstracts: Sen'i Gakkaishi, Vol. 65, No.12

Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:36:59 PST

Design of a Novel Filament with Vapor Absorption Capacity Without Creating Any Feeling of Wetness

Ucar, N., Beskisiz, E., Demir, A. — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

The aim of this study is to design and develop a novel filament that can absorb water vapor but does not cause any feeling of wetness to the person who touches it. Thus, a polypropylene fiber which absorbs no water vapor (0%) may be used as an outer surface while SAP (super absorbent polymer) may be used as a filler placed into the cavity of the filament in order to absorb the required excessive amount of water vapor. It has been proven that the developed novel filament with SAP filler could absorb water vapor, without creating any feeling of wetness. It has been observed that while a filament with SAP absorbs 8% water vapor providing a dry sense on the outer surface of the filament, a filament without SAP absorbs 0% water vapor. All samples dried in about 20—30 minutes following the first water absorption test. The dry cleaning process caused a decrease in water vapor absorption capacity at a ratio of up to 50%. The amount of SAP, the number of filaments in the filament bundle and the covering density on the filament bundle affected the absorption capacity at statistically significant levels.

Automatic Identification of Ramie and Cotton Fibers Using Characteristics in Longitudinal View, Part II: Fiber Stripes Analysis

Wang, R. W., Wu, X. Y., Wang, S. Y., Xu, B. — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

Based on the analysis of stripes on fiber surfaces, a new method for cotton and ramie fiber identification is introduced in this paper. The stripes of a fiber surface were extracted by segmentation, edge detection, and thinning, and then they were orthogonally projected along the curving skeleton of the fiber. In addition, six characteristic parameters for identification were obtained, and based on the method of maximum probability, equations for identification were established on the six probability distribution curves of the characteristic parameters. Finally, weight coefficients of the equations were obtained from self-adapting identification tests. The experiments showed that the overall tolerance for false identification of cotton or ramie fiber was under 7%.

Effect of Ceramics on the Physical and Thermo-physiological Performance of Warm-up Suit

Myoung Hee Shim, , Chung Hee Park, , Heun Sup Shim, — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

The purpose of this study was to develop a warm-up suit that is comfortable as well as having a good thermal performance. Heat-insulating water vapor-permeable fabrics for warm-up suit were developed by applying ceramic powders to hydrophilic polyurethane films, which were then incorporated into textiles. Two types of ceramic compounds were used in this study: MU-4N and RT-3. The infrared emissivity was 92.6 for MU-4N and 94.8 for RT-3. In order to evaluate the effectiveness of using ceramics in a warm-up suit, we examined the effects of ceramics on selected variables: thermo-physiological properties of the clothing systems (using thermal manikin), and thermo-physiological responses and subjective sensations of human subjects. The infrared emissivity of textiles increased when ceramics were added to the film laminate. Ceramics slightly increased the thermal insulation value and decreased the water vapor transmission rate. The thermal manikin test also showed that ceramics enhanced the thermal insulation of the clothing system without increasing the evaporative resistance. The microclimate temperature was kept higher when subjects wore the warm-up suit with ceramics.

Water Shedding Angle: A New Technique to Evaluate the Water-Repellent Properties of Superhydrophobic Surfaces

Zimmermann, J., Seeger, S., Reifler, F. A. — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

A new technique is introduced to evaluate the wetting properties of superhydrophobic textiles which are not accessible by classical contact angle measurement techniques. The principle behind the new water shedding angle technique is the ability of a superhydrophobic surface to repel drops of water upon impact. In this sense it shows a strong reference to application and its results are easily understood in terms of water protection. The procedure is simple and straightforward and the experimental setup can be easily built or adapted to most available contact angle measurement systems. In view of the significant potential of superhydrophobic coatings for textile applications, the water shedding angle provides a reliable and comparable measure to judge the quality of a superhydrophobic textile in terms of water repellency. It constitutes a useful addition to existing techniques and has proven to be better suited to evaluate the wetting properties of superhydrophobic textiles than the contemporary methods presently in use.

The Investigation on the influence of DMDHEU on the Wrinkle and Abrasion Resistance of Cotton Fabrics using Image Processing

Naderpour, F., Mirjalili, S.A., Sharzehee, M. — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

In this paper, the application of image analysis to assess the fabric wrinkle and abrasion resistance in order to compare with experimental methods is described. Three samples of cotton fabrics (plain) with different finishing treatments were tested. In the present work, employing an appropriate lighting method, sample images were captured by scanner, and then images prepared from samples were processed in MATLAB. Finally, the number which evaluates each mentioned property was achieved. The results compare wrinkle and abrasion with experimental evaluation, revealing that data from image analysis is more precise than experimental data.

New Intelligent Method of Evaluating the Regularity of Weft-knitted Fabrics by Computer Vision and Grading Development

Semnani, D., Sheikhzadeh, M. — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

In this research, a new intelligent method was used to evaluate the deformation of stitches in various weft-knitted fabrics based on an ideal shape of stitches and angle of direction of stitches in a knitting machine. To measure deviation of stitch direction against internal stresses, an image analysis technique was applied to images taken from different fabrics with constant front light. In this method, evaluation of fabric regularity with emphasis on the deformation of stitches was studied based on analyzing the images of the fabric using Radon transformation analysis. The index of fabric regularity was obtained from the deviation of stitches from the original direction of ideal regular fabric. Also, the grading of weft-knitted fabric was expanded with a new aspect of regularity grades as a novel grading development. The computer vision method was applied to models of ideal fabric with different stitch sizes. Different weft-knitted fabrics of various structures and yarns were evaluated by the computer vision method. The results showed that this method is capable of grading various weft-knitted fabrics with different fabric structures, densities and yarn types. Therefore, it is possible to use this method for every type of weft-knitted fabric. The results indicated that tuck and miss stitches caused more regularity in fabric, whereas the type of yarn has a major effect on fabric regularity.

Determining Pseudo Poisson's Ratio of Woven Fabric with a Digital Image Correlation Method

Hursa, A., Rolich, T., Razic, S. E. — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

In this paper the determination of pseudo Poisson’s ratio of woven fabric with a digital image correlation method is presented. Measurements were performed on three cotton woven fabric samples which were prepared according the standard ISO 13934-1:1999. The fabric sample was exposed to tensile loading of 1% strain on a tensile test machine. Testing was simultaneous recording with a digital video camera. These video recordings were afterwards processed in the MATLAB program and the pseudo Poisson’s ratio determined according to the displacement in the x and y axis directions. The pseudo Poisson’s ratio was determined for three woven fabrics in the warp and weft directions. The results of the investigation show that the values of the pseudo Poisson’s ratio are in the range from 0.2 to 0.5, which agrees with results also found in the literature. According to the investigation it can be concluded that the value of the pseudo Poisson’s ratio depends on the weave type and the number of yarns in the fabric. For woven fabric in plain weave a higher pseudo Poisson’s ratio is determined (warp direction from 0.335 to 0.500, weft direction from 0.392 to 0.484). The pseudo Poisson’s ratio for woven fabric in twill weave has values in the warp direction from 0.281 to 0.329, and in the weft direction from 0.183 to 0.214.

The Prediction of Initial Load-extension Behavior of Woven Fabrics Using Artificial Neural Network

Hadizadeh, M., Jeddi, A. A. A., Tehran, M. A. — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

The main advantage of artificial neural network (ANN) approach over theoretical methods lies in the fact that it does not require the accurate mathematical model of the system while modeling complicated nonlinear processes. This paper presents an ANN model for predicting initial load-extension behavior of plain weave and plain weave derivative fabrics. A single hidden layer feed-forward ANN based on a back-propagation algorithm with four input neurons and one output neuron was developed to predict initial modulus in the warp and weft directions. Input values are defined as combination expressions of geometrical parameters of fabric and yarn flexural rigidity, which were obtained from Leaf’s mathematical model. Data were divided into two groups as training and test sets. A very good agreement between the examined and predicted values was achieved.

Experimental Investigation on the Effect of Singeing on Cotton Yarn Properties

Xia, Z., Wang, X., Ye, W., Xu, W., Zhang, J., Zhao, H. — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

In this study, combed ring spun and compact spun cotton yarns with different counts were selected from different textile mills to conduct singeing treatment. Yarn properties including hairiness, fineness, unevenness and tensile properties were tested after the treatment and the results were compared with those before treatment. Hairiness was greatly removed after singeing, especially for short hairs with length less than 3 mm. Compact ring spun cotton yarns showed higher tex values and lower weight loss than combed ring spun cotton yarns under the same counts. Coefficient of variation of yarns increased slightly after singeing treatment. The unevenness of yarn was divided into two parts: basic unevenness of yarn body and hairiness unevenness, to explain the worse yarn evenness after singeing treatment. In this way, the effect of singeing on yarn properties was investigated thoroughly so as to improve yarn quality with less hairiness and good evenness.

Detection of Wrapping Defects by a Machine Vision and its Application to Evaluate the Wrapping Quality of the Ring Core Spun Yarn

Kim, H. J., Kim, J. S., Lim, J. H., Huh, Y. — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

Core spun yarn is understood as a cross-sectionally structured composite yarn in which the core strand is wrapped by staples. The quality of the core spun yarn is thus determined by the structural characteristics, if the core filaments are firmly located in the center of the yarn and well covered by the sheath-staples. A variety of core spun yarns can be attained by various combinations of sheath staples and core filaments, which leads to a better mechanical, thermal, or physiological performance of the yarn. Applying the ring spinning principle, however, to manufacture the core spun yarn often causes defects in the yarn; for example, the aesthetic defects due to the appearance of the core filaments on the yarn surface. In this study we conceived and constructed a measuring system that operates on the machine vision along with programs for recognizing the surface defects and monitoring the measuring process. We checked the feasibility of the new measurement system. Experimental trials demonstrated that the wrapping defect measurement system gave reproducible and trustable results. The twist effect on the surface defects of the core spun yarn, which is closely related with the probable occurrence of the core filaments on the yarn surface, can be described by a wrapping defect index and it revealed that there is a twist level that provides the yarn with the minimum number of defects on the surface.

Abrasion Properties of Upholstery Flocked Fabrics

Bilisik, K., Yolacan, G. — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:41:48 PDT

Flocked fabrics are particularly used in outwear and home upholstery since they are comfortable and soft. In this study, Martindale abrasion and token rubbing properties of the flocked fabrics were investigated and characterized. It was observed that the surface abrasion properties of the flocked fabrics varied depending on the flock fiber density and flock fiber length. The abrasion resistance of flocked fabrics was increased by increasing flock fiber length and decreasing flock fiber density. The surface rubbing properties of flocked fabrics showed similar tendencies with the abrasion properties. However, the flocked fabrics showed more resistance to rubbing in dry form than wet form. These results were in agreement with the optical microscope images.

A Functional Fabric for Pressure Ulcer Prevention

Basal, G., Ilgaz, S. — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:34:28 PDT

Pressure ulcers, also known as bed sores, pressure sores and decubitus ulcers, are localized areas of tissue damage that develop due to pressure usually over a bony prominence. They are associated with adverse health outcomes and high treatment costs. This study focused on developing a functional fabric for pressure ulcer prevention. For this purpose, face-to-face velour weaving technique was utilized to produce a spacer fabric from the different combinations of engineered polyester, polypropylene, cotton and viscose fibers. Thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, water vapor permeability, wicking ability, compressibility and fabric hand properties of the resultant 32 fabrics were examined. Based on the results, channeled polyester, cotton and polypropylene were determined as the most promising fiber types for the final product.

Implementation of Steel-based Fabric Panels in a Heated Garment Design

Kayacan, O., Bulgun, E., Sahin, O. — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:34:28 PDT

The smart/interactive textile structures that integrate electronics and textile materials have realized their great potential in recent years. The garments, which can heat the body, will possibly be one of the most widely used products as electrotextiles for future use in daily life. In this study, steel-based conductive yarns were used to produce heating panels within the study about interactive electronic heated garment design. Portable power supplies were applied to fabric-based panels to obtain a heating function. In addition to an electronic circuit, a functional garment containing all of the systems was designed and produced. The performance of the heating garment prototype was evaluated on a thermal mannequin by testing in cold weather environments.

Size Effects in Multifilament Glass-Rovings: the Influence of Geometrical Factors on Their Performance in Textile-Reinforced Concrete

Weichold, O., Hojczyk, M. — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:34:28 PDT

A set of four commercially available multifilament glass-rovings with 320, 640, 1200, and 2400 tex embedded in concrete was investigated using pull-out tests and scanning electron microscopy. The increasing roving cross-section within this set arose from two geometrical factors, namely the number of filaments and the filament diameter. In general, pull-out loads and the pullout work increase with increasing roving cross-section, while the pull-out stress, the efficacy, and the roving penetration decrease. An attempt to separate the two geometrical factors revealed that an increase in the filament diameter reduced the mechanical performance of a roving to a much greater extent than an increase in the number of filaments. Consequently, effective textiles used for reinforced concrete should be made from a larger number of finer rovings such as the 640 tex rather than 2400 tex rovings.

A Proposal for a New Size Label to Assist Consumers in Finding Well-fitting Women's Clothing, Especially Pants: An Analysis of Size USA Female Data and Women's Ready-to-wear Pants for North American Companies

Faust, M.-E., Carrier, S. — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:34:28 PDT

In the USA, Canada and Europe labels that disclose garments’ composition, origin, commercial brand or price at point of sale are required. No law governs garment size labels and underlying measurements. Standard size chart determination is not an easy task and has always been challenging for national institutes of standardization, manufacturers and retailers. Moreover, size standards are voluntary, therefore those who initiate garment orders can decide whether or not to adhere to national standards. Since size labels and standards are voluntary, some of the buyers or their intermediaries prefer to target specific ‘silhouette and shape’ markets by adapting their measurements, while others play the vanity sizing card. Confusion occurs as companies in North America all use the same numerical size labeling systems. The research discussed in this paper demonstrates that manufacturers in North America size garments (pants) according to their own, specific target markets (which differ from one another), to cover most of the population; they then label these garments with reference to a single numerical code size labeling system which leads to chaos in the market place. Besides being challenging for the apparel industry, the size label system creates an ambiguous situation for the consumer who cannot rely on the size label to identify a good fitting garment, and thus is spending undue time trying clothes. We conclude that the time has come to standardize the size label in order to provide better fitting clothes for ready-to-wear.

The Effects of Super Absorbent Fibers on the Washing, Dry Cleaning and Drying Behavior of Knitted Fabrics

Beskisiz, E., Ucar, N., Demir, A. — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:34:28 PDT

In this study, water absorption and drying properties of knitted fabrics produced by 100 % polyester staple fibers (PET) yarn, blend of 80 % PET, 20 % super absorbent fibers (SAF) yarn and covered 80—20 % PET-SAF blend yarn, which the surface of the 80—20 % PET-SAF blend yarn has been covered by a monofilament polyester were experimentally examined. The effect of SAF, covering yarn, washing and drying treatment and dry cleaning treatment on the water absorption of the fabrics was analyzed. It was seen that knitted fabric with 80—20 % PET-SAF blend yarn and covered blend yarn always had higher water absorption value and longer drying time than knitted fabric with 100 % PET. However, knitted fabric with covered blend yarn had less water absorption than the fabric with blend yarn. Water absorption values of fabrics did not change too much during repeated water absorption tests. The absorption properties of the fabrics containing SAF decreased dramatically after washing and drying treatment. However, after repeated dry cleaning treatment, there was still considerably high water absorption capacity on the fabric containing SAF with regard to the fabric with 100 % PET.

An Application of Queuing Theory to Modeling of Melange Yarns Part I: A Queuing Model of Melange Yarn Structure

Siewe, F., Grishanov, S., Cassidy, T., Banyard, G. — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:34:28 PDT

A queuing model of staple fiber yarn is presented that enables the modeling and a better understanding of fiber migration in a yarn. The model provides a fine yarn structure where the migrational behavior of fibers is associated with the behavior of customers traveling across an open network of queuing systems to get services. Based on this analogy, the underlying mathematical foundation of the queuing theory is used for the modeling of yarn structure and properties. The model uses yarn technical specifications including yarn linear density and twist level, fiber linear density and length distribution, together with specific parameters such as fiber packing density distribution and migration probabilities. The model can be used for modeling a wide range of structurally different yarns; examples include marl, mottle and melange yarns, yarns with different levels of hairiness, and yarns produced by various spinning systems. The model can be used for 3D simulation of yarns in computer-aided design systems for textile design and for the prediction of mechanical properties of yarns.

Silver-supporting Modification of Viscose Rayon-Based Activated Carbon Fabrics

Su, C.-I., Peng, C.-C., Lu, Y.-C. — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:34:28 PDT

This study examines the properties and microstructure of viscose rayon-based activated carbon fabric (ACF) modified by supporting silver. ACF with different pore characteristics is prepared using different active gases, followed by silver-supporting modification. The effect of variation in decomposition temperature and the reaction time on the chemical properties and microstructure of silver-containing activated carbon fabric (ACF-Ag) absorbents are investigated. In addition, the antibacterial ability and absorption of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) of the ACF-Ag absorbent are also measured.

Experimental results show that carbon fiber activated by steam and air has more mesopores and a larger BET specific surface area (based on the formula of multilayer absorption by Brunauer, Emmett and Teller). In addition, the crystals thus formed are thicker and denser with relatively higher true density values. The ratio of the oxygen containing functional groups is also higher. Among the functional groups of ACF-Ag, the peak value of the carbonyl function group will increase, and so will the peak value of alcohol and ether. Comparing the ACF adsorbent before and after silver deposition shows that the ACF-Ag adsorbent has a lower isotherm, less BET specific surface area and a smaller mean pore diameter. The maximum adsorption of VOCs by the ACF-Ag adsorbent reduces more significantly as a result of increased silver content than the weight of VOCs adsorbed by ACF before silver deposition. In any case, different ACF-Ag adsorbents all show effective antibacterial and sterilizing properties.

Mechanical Behaviors in Shearing and Transverse Compression of Fibrous Asperities: Application to the Characterization of Surface Quality of Textile Materials

Fontaine, S., Renner, M., Marsiquet, C. — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:34:28 PDT

In many fields, it is today important to determine in detail the surface quality of materials. Well beyond only roughness, it is necessary to characterize texture and the properties related to friction. In order to meet this need, a patented method named Modalsens is under development within the LPMT (Laboratoire de Physique et de Mécanique Textiles — UMR CNRS 7189). This method is based on the analysis of the vibratory behavior of a fine blade in dynamic contact with surface being tested. The modes of vibration of the blade provide information where roughness, texture, friction, adhesion, and compressibility are mixed. In order to characterize surface quality in detail, it is necessary to divide these various characteristics and to connect them to specificities of measured materials. This work consists of an experimental approach on the basis of varied fibrous materials (paper, non-woven materials, textiles) selected according to their surface conditions (textures) and their transverse properties (compressibility). Modalsens is then compared with reference apparatus Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) used for textiles metrology. A modeling of the dynamic contact has been developed to study the divergences between the methods of measurement to identify new parameters for a better characterization of surfaces and to identify the mechanical behaviors of fibrous asperity in shearing and transverse compression. Thus, both transverse and shearing properties, roughness, and friction will be measured and compared based on Modalsens results.

Biological Evaluations of a Smart Shape Memory Fabric

Meng, Q., Hu, J., Zhu, Y., Lu, J., Liu, B. — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:34:28 PDT

A shape memory fiber was prepared and a corresponding shape memory fabric was fabricated by knitting using the prepared shape memory fiber. Both the fiber and fabric showed good shape memory properties. The prepared fiber had much higher mechanical strength than that of corresponding shape memory films due to molecular orientation caused by the spinning process. The biological evaluations of the prepared shape memory fabric were preliminarily assessed in terms of cytotoxicity, hemolysis, sensitization and dermal irritant. The test results show that the shape memory fabric is not cytotoxic, hemolytic, sensitive, or irritant. Due to the special format of shape memory fiber/fabric being more compatible with human bodies compared with shape memory films or bulks, the shape memory fiber/fabric may find broad application in biomedical areas such as artificial tendon, artificial cornea, hernia repair, artificial bone joints, orthodontics, scaffold material, and wound dressing.

Abstracts: Sen'i Gakkaishi, Vol. 65, No.11

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:34:28 PDT

Editorial

Zhang, D. — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 06:17:13 PDT

Permeability in Engineered Non-woven Fabrics Having Patterned Structure

Mao, N. — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 06:17:13 PDT

The patterned non-woven fabric structure is a typical non-homogeneous non-woven fabric and is frequently used as a hygienic medical absorbent material to control fluid transport for directional delivery. In this paper, the characteristics of the structural variation in both strip and point patterned non-woven fabrics are examined, and the relationship between the global permeabilities in both the transverse and in-plane directions in the patterned non-woven fabrics and the local fabric structural parameters (e.g. fiber diameter, fiber orientation distribution, fabric porosity, and local pattern dimensions) is established.

Unsteady-state Liquid Transport in Engineered Nonwoven Fabrics having Patterned Structure

Mao, N. — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 06:17:13 PDT

The initial stage of liquid absorption in unsaturated nonwoven fabrics (e.g. dry wipes, absorbent materials and hygiene products) is an unsteady-state fluid flow. For the purpose of the engineering design of these nonwoven products, there is a need to predict the unsteady-state fluid flow in both homogeneous anisotropic nonwoven structures and heterogeneous patterned nonwoven fabrics having a dual-scale porosity structure. In this paper, the unsteady-state liquid wicking in homogeneous anisotropic nonwoven fabric structure has been modeled, and the relationship between unsteady-state liquid absorption in patterned nonwoven fabrics and its structural parameters has been established based on the fabric structural parameters.

Study of the Influence of Fiber Diameter and Fiber Blending on Liquid Absorption Inside Nonwoven Structures

Chen, X., Vroman, P., Lewandowski, M., Perwuelz, A., Zhang, Y. — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 06:17:13 PDT

The purpose of this work was to investigate how nonwoven fabrics absorb and diffuse liquids and to define relevant diffusion parameters, with a special focus on the influence of fiber diameter on the diffusion process. The nonwoven structures studied were composed of polyester fibers of different diameters and were manufactured with a drylaid/needlepunching process. The liquid diffusion properties were evaluated with decane, a perfectly wetting liquid. Two methods based on vertical wicking (one direction) and absorption capacity measurements were used. The vertical wicking test results showed that finer fibers led to higher capillary absorption ability, but to the detriment of liquid absorption rate. Blending two fibers of different diameters improved the liquid retention behavior, while maintaining absorption rates that were equivalent to nonwovens with the coarser fibers. Finally, the different results obtained in the two experimental methods for the liquid filling ratio are discussed.

Zeta Potential and Surface Physico-chemical Properties of Atmospheric Air-plasma-treated Polyester Fabrics

Guo, L., Campagne, C., Perwuelz, A., Leroux, F. — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 06:17:13 PDT

The effects of atmospheric air-plasma treatments on woven polyester (PET) textile structures were studied by surface analysis methods: zeta potential, X-ray photoemission spectroscopy (XPS), wettability and capillarity methods. The zeta potential of the fabrics was based on the established principles of streaming potential. The zeta potential measurements showed that plasma-treated fabrics indicated an acidic surface character. The water contact angle on plasma-treated PET decreased from 80° to 40°, indicating an increase in the surface energy of PET fibers due to a change in the fiber surface chemical nature, which was confirmed by an increase of the oxygen content in the surface detected by XPS. The capillary weight increased from 12 to 200 mg. Both capillary and zeta measurements showed 700 W as the optimum plasma treatment power.

Determination of Relevant Process Operation Setting Space for Developing Multifunctional Nonwoven-based Products

Deng, X., Vroman, P., Zeng, X., Koehl, L. — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 06:17:13 PDT

Owing to various end-uses and good performance/cost ratio, the multifunctional nonwoven-based products have been significantly developed within a decade. Such products are mostly dedicated to niche or limited markets and are preferably high valued products. Therefore, in order to face the international competition, designers are strongly involved in development of new advanced products in order to satisfy more complex requirements and specifications with limited time and cost. One of the objectives of the design procedure is to define a relevant process operation setting space (acceptable range of design factors) adapted to the selected process. This paper presents an original method for determining such relevant space. The proposed procedure can save a certain amount of trials by investigating interesting zones of process operation settings with a limited experiment design. This procedure permits to support the designers during the learning and the optimization phases.

Detecting Pills in Fabric Images Based on Multi-scale Matched Filtering

Chen, X., Xu, Z., Chen, T., Wang, J., Li, L. — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 06:17:13 PDT

The recognition and segmentation of pills in fabric images based on multi-scale matched filtering are introduced in this paper. According to the asymptotic intensity change of a pill, the pill was modeled using a Gaussian function. A matched filter is designed for detecting fabric pills. However, big pills and small pills may distribute randomly in an image and are hard to be detected simultaneously with the filter. To solve this problem, a group of matched filters, with variable-size convolution kernels using the multi-scale expansion and shrinkage properties of the wavelet function, are generated and convolved with the fabric image. Then pills, at each output of matched filtering, are recognized and we determined whether pills exist in the local area by merging all of the outputs of the multi-scale matched filtering. Finally, pills in the local area, where the existence of pills has been confirmed, are further segmented using an adaptive threshold method based on mean and weighted variance. The detection of pills on a real image shows that this method can satisfy the recognition and segmentation of different size pills and is helpful for quantitatively describing the pilling information.

Preparation of Pure Cellulose Nanofiber via Electrospinning

Ohkawa, K., Hayashi, S., Nishida, A., Yamamoto, H., Ducreux, J. — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 06:17:13 PDT

We describe the preparation of cellulose nanofibrous material directly from cellulose solution via electrospinning. The resulting nanofiber is composed of pure cellulose. The spinning procedure can be performed under ambient conditions at room temperature without post-spun treatment. By mixing drugs with the pre-spun cellulose solution, followed by electrospinning, the drug-loaded nanofiber was prepared and the releasing properties were examined with respect to biomedical applications.

Research on Dyeing and Ultraviolet Protection of Silk Fabric Using Vegetable Dyes Extracted from Flos Sophorae

Wang, L., Wang, N., Jia, S., Zhou, Q. — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 06:17:13 PDT

This paper discusses the ultraviolet protective properties of silk fabrics using vegetable dyes extracted from Flos Sophorae. It was found that the aqueous solution of this vegetable dye has excellent thermal stability as well as stability in acid conditions. With the objective of achieving the greatest absorbency in the ultraviolet region, the following optimum extraction conditions were obtained for Flos Sophorae: extraction temperature of 100°C, extraction time of 60 min, and material to liquor ratio of 1:10. The UPF and T(UVA)_AV values for the silk fabric dyed by the optimum dye solution were found to meet the Chinese National Standard (UPF = 69 > 30, T(UVA)_AV = 1.07% < 5%). According to the standard, the silk fabric can claim to be a "UV-Protective product". The relation between the UPF value and the K/S value was also studied.

Abstracts: Sen'i Gakkaishi, Vol. 65, No.10

Wed, 16 Sep 2009 06:17:13 PDT